It’s a tradition as old as time itself (or 1966, when Californian native Margot Fraser bought the U.S. distribution rights for a homely German sandal known as the Birkenstock). Every few seasons, the arbiters of fashion attempt to convince us that certain ugly shoes — masterfully constructed, borderline chic, certifiably ugly nonetheless — are cool.
For the record, we don’t use the word “ugly” to impugn these designers’ abilities (or even their tastes). In fact, the cobblers usually triumph in their mind manipulations because their shoes are so — how shall we put this? — unique. Their designs demonstrate ingenuity. Originality we feel transfers to us when we slide these veritable works of art on our feet. Plus, in many cases, the less aesthetically pleasing the shoe, the cozier it is.
In recent years, the ugly shoe trend has picked up speed. (Athleisure, novelty and all things ironic being “in” and all.) At Celine’s Spring 2013 show in Paris, Phoebe Philo raised the incline by sending cozy, fur-lined slip-ons down the runway. The well-heeled (sore-footed) fashion crowd duly lost its mind. “That silhouette was universally considered ugly,” remarked Vogue.com contributor Katherine Bernard at the time. “But **Phoebe Philo’**s luxe reinterpretation of a Birkenstock got me thinking. It’s like the most comfortable sandal in the world is having a stylish renaissance.”
Why?? (Ugly-chic shoes on the Hood By Air Spring 2017 runway; Image: Imaxtree)
Since then, we’ve seen countless designers offer up their own versions of shower slides, Birkenstocks, UGGs, Wallabees and moon boots. In 2015, we were given a Marc Jacobs-branded Dr. Scholl’s sandal. Opening Ceremony has released no less than three (successful!) Teva collaborations. For Spring 2017, Christopher Kane actually teamed up with Crocs (yes, the slip-resistant shoes once associated with line cooks are now fashion). And we won’t soon forget those electric-green double-faced Hood By Air boots (above).
The recent runways were similarly rife with jolie laide shoes, most of them far more wearable than those Frankencowboy boots. And wear them the street style set will because what screams “Notice me!” louder than fuzzy, multicolored Prada boots? Steel yourself for the clash of good clothes and ugly shoes. Click through the gallery below to see what forms the trend will take in Fall 2017.
P.S. If you decide to hop on the bandwagon, complement your footwear with a tailored pant or pretty dress.
P.P.S. We didn’t forget about Christopher Kane x Crocs part deux. The omission is intentional. Don’t do it.
Images: Imaxtree
Ugly Shoes
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Acne Studios Fall 2017
For Fall 2017, Acne Studios Creative Director Jonny Johansson drew inspiration from finger puppets made by renowned Swiss-German artist Paul Klee in the mid-1910s. As evidenced by the wonderfully nonsensical patchwork boots.
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Acne Studios Fall 2017
Here's another one of Jonny's additions to the ever-growing ugly shoe category.
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Alexander Wang Fall 2017
UGGs — Australian sheep shearer’s ugly boot of choice — got a haute remake on the Alexander Wang runway.
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Anna Sui Fall 2017
Here are the shockingly purple, (faux) fur-lined Victorian boots you never asked for, care of Anna Sui.
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Balenciaga Fall 2017
Behold "possibly the world’s first protest shoes, draped in look-alike Bernie Sanders Balenciaga T-shirt material," to quote Vogue's Sarah Mower. Demna Gvasalia suggests styling them with embroidered stockings and floral capes, we recommend skipping them altogether.
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Chanel Fall 2017
Pink tweed, Lucite-heeled, patent-lined ankle boots? Aw, Karl, you really shouldn't have.
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Coach 1941 Fall 2017
Stuart Vevers' shearling-lined moon boots are certainly an acquired taste, but cozy-looking enough that we're willing to give them a shot.
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Coach 1941 Fall 2017
Ditto goes for these fringe-accented duck boots (which also came in cream and hot pink, if you're not partial to teal).
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Coach 1941 Fall 2017
Seriously, what are these? Pool slides? Snow sandals? Whatever they are, they'll require a statement sock liner come fall.
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Comme des Garçons Fall 2017
For Fall 2017, Rei Kawakubo, longtime Nike collaborator, showed a black bow-embellished version of the sportswear brand's LunarEpic Flyknit. Thoughts?
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Comme des Garçons Fall 2017
The 2017 Met Gala honoree, known for her unconventional eye, also debuted slightly absurd, bow-bedecked Chelsea boots.
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Gucci Fall 2017
Alessandro Michele follows "[his] rules, not fashion rules." The word tacky does not exist in Alessandro's vocabulary (or if it does, the connotation's entirely different). That's how these snake-printed, crystal-edged heels came about.
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Marc Jacobs Fall 2017
Marc Jacobs, a fan of sky-high raver heels, anchored his sporty, sophisticated Fall 2017 collection with sturdy, cowboy-inspired platform boots.
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Marc Jacobs Fall 2017
Marc, make all the ugly shoes you want, just please don't leave us.
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Maison Margiela Fall 2017
From surrealist footwear maker John Galliano, a cleft-toed, sack-like ankle boot done in red snakeskin (what else?). We're actually big fans of his more wearable cleft-toed ballet flat.
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Alexander McQueen Fall 2017
Here's what your shoe closet's missing: motorcycle boots with a studded tail.
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MSGM Fall 2017
There's a tinsel party on Massimo Giorgetti's orange-heeled ankle booties and everyone's invited.
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MSGM Fall 2017
One can never have too many titanic tassels. Plus, orange is so in right now.
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Off-White Fall 2017
These statement ankle boots were made "FOR WALKING" — and Bella Hadid already has a pair — but we can see how the industrial buckled straps might not be FOR EVERYONE.
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Prada Fall 2017
Miuccia Prada may or may not have caught the creatures from Monsters, Inc., skinned them and turned them into boots...
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Prada Fall 2017
...and moccasins...
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Prada Fall 2017
...and loafers.
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Prada Fall 2017
No Prada (shoe) collection is complete without some ostrich feathers. Disclaimer: For all their weirdness, Miuccia's fun fur- and feather-accented shoes radiate youthful idealism — and we're totally here for that.
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Public School Fall 2017
Combat boots are going to be huge this fall. The jury's still out on fabric-draped ones.
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Public School Fall 2017
We wouldn't call these oxfords "ugly," but they're certainly unlike anything else out there.
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Simone Rocha Fall 2017
Forget Gucci's long hair goat slippers — these furry-toed, Lucite-heeled mules are where it's at.
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Simone Rocha Fall 2017
Again, "ugly" is in the eye of the beholder.
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Simone Rocha Fall 2017
Um.
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Vivienne Westwood Fall 2017
Well, now we know what it would look like if Edwardian pumps and hiking boots had a baby. The truly brazen can wear these with socks.
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Vivienne Westwood Fall 2017
Alternatively, here's a sock and hiking boot rolled into one.
