Kendall Jenner walks Givenchy S/S 2015; Image: Getty
tFS: What do you think about models from famous families?
JV: There’s always been that “it” girl thing with famous families. I don’t find it interesting at all. But when I was at the Givenchy show in September and the second to the last girl came down the runway, I thought she was interesting. She looked like an ethnic Mariacarla. The next morning I woke up in Paris and found out it was Kendall Jenner. I think she would look like a model even without her famous family. She’s beautiful.
Binx; Image: British Vogue May 2014
tFS: What happens when you decide to drastically change a model’s hair?
JV: There is a dialogue we have with the girl before it’s done, but we do have an aesthetic here. Hair can make or break a career. So, there could be 100 emails about cutting one girl’s hair. It’s a huge decision, especially if you have a girl who you’re tracking to go on a high level. You have to make sure what works in London also works in Paris, Milan and New York. Binx had long hair down to there, remember? She was so shy. Alexis from our LA office decided to chop her hair. She came back, and look at her now. She’s one of the top models in the world. If that haircut didn’t happen, I don’t know if she could be the same girl.
tFS: How do TV competitions affect models?
JV: I think there’s still a stigma to be on a television show, and I think you can get mistrained. Like, for instance, when you get told that something is the way it isn’t. You might also expect a red carpet to be rolled out for you in New York because you won a competition on a television show, but no one gets the red carpet in New York. The United Nations is here. You can have 280 world leaders on a tiny island; no one cares about your TV competition. There are more important things. It’s like Darwinism — survival of the fittest.
tFS: Do you use social media to scout?
JV: I know there are little agencies all around the world that are scouting through social media, and we do look at things we might come across. But the ultimate reality is to get in front of Alexander Wang or Marc Jacobs or Riccardo Tisci, you have to sell it in person. If I think there’s the future Kate or Gisele out in the world, I board an airplane to see her. Models still have to convey something. It’s not one-dimensional.
tFS: Are you friends with your models?
JV: Yes, I am. I get texts from the girls or they come over and say hi or sit on my lap. When I come back from my scouting trips, my computer will be covered in Post-its. They leave me little messages and hearts. I have a friendly, beautiful relationship with 98 percent of them.
tFS: What’s your role during Fashion Week?
JV: My role really is to be the bridge between the mother agency, the girl and the agent. I make sure they’re in shape, and I take them shopping. I help them with morale when they’re down, especially in Paris when the girls are really tired.
tFS: What’s trending in modeling now?
JV: Brazil is always going to do well because the girls have great personalities. They’re friendly and happy; clients like that. Holland is still big. I’ve been finding more girls in Spain. Anytime the economy gets bad, girls aren’t as comfortable and they have to scramble. Argentina was the Europe of South America for years; girls didn’t want to travel. Then what happened when it tanked? Those tall, pretty girls were flying.
tFS: What are your thoughts on model diversity?
JV: I definitely think there needs to be more girls of color, 100 percent. There’s a wave of Chinese girls; I think that has economic dealings, too since the luxury market has a strong presence over there. There are so many beautiful black women, but there aren’t enough outlets for them to excel, in Europe especially. These girls end up being based in New York, because that’s where they work.
Erika Linder; Image: Glamour Germany Sept. 2014
tFS: Would you sign a transgender model?
JV: I’ve been shown a few transgender models. The agents don’t want to say it at first, but you know. I’d love to find the right one. We have Erika Linder already, who’s not transgender, but shoots like a boy. Beauty that can resonate in either direction is powerful. Everyone should be included.
tFS: How about plus-sized models?
JV: I love the idea of booking a plus-sized model. A beautiful woman is beautiful no matter what. I wish the designers would loosen the standards on measurements.
tFS: How has the industry changed and where is it going?
JV: People have an insatiable desire for something new, especially because of social media. Everyone’s attention spans are short. They can’t even read a book. So to really break a girl and for her to hold on, that’s much harder. It’s infuriating. Supply and demand doesn’t exit. I think there will be a backlash. Agencies are going to start taking less and less girls. Because if you don’t, you’re going to end up with a bunch of girls who tried once and who aren’t going to work again. Everyone is scouring the world for something that’s already being provided.
