Think again if you thought Nicolas Ghesquière closed out the Paris Fashion Week calendar with his Louis Vuitton showcase. Anthony Vaccarello said not on his watch, staging a not-so-secret Saint Laurent show for the French fashion house’s Fall 2024 menswear collection, which was only announced to the fashion press just two days prior to showtime. Staged within the French capital’s historic Bourse de Commerce, a dead ringer to Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent himself soon emerged on the circular runway, dressed in Vaccarello’s take on power dressing. The silhouettes to follow around the perimeter of the plush show space were strong, louche and double-breasted, with wide-shouldered tailoring, trench coats and variously colored ties recalling the distinctive office attire of the 1980s.
Read below the reactions of theFashionSpot’s forum members:
“Kind of depressing.” [matheus_s]
“Very depressing…” [yslforever]
“Cute pieces here and there but why insist on poor suiting? They need to get a serious menswear designer.” [Kimihiro]
“This was… off and repetitive. The proportions were unsettling. Overall, very dreary.” [mteb123]
“This is a really off putting men’s collection. I don’t know why, but I find it rather repulsive.” [Cocteau Stone]
“It reminds me of politicians. 90s politicians wearing outdated 80s suits.” [Machinegumm]
“That’s a lot of sloppy suits for one collection, that being said. I wish to never see a man wearing one of those suits IRL. It’s all quite terrible and not even the slick presentation could save that. I don’t think Vaccarello understands menswear. He understands the needs of men and I know he would never wear one of those suits!” [Lola701]
“I see I’m outnumbered here, bit I quite enjoyed this actually. I’m a sucker for fluid tailoring and big shoulders in men’s suits and I love the sartorial proposal here. I like how the suiting wardrobe of Yves the man was the starting point.” [Mr-Dale]
“I liked it. Perhaps his strongest menswear showing. The suits, though I’m not a fan of the fit, are still strong and right for the look they’re trying to achieve. There were a lot of options and the wardrobe was dense and not as repetitive as before. Venue is recycled but the clothes saved the day. Great music as always!” [McQ20]
“I really dig this. It just feels mature and sophisticated, which we don’t get that often in menswear these days. I love the Yves clones, great casting.” [Marc10]
See all the looks from the Saint Laurent Menswear Fall 2024 collection and join the conversation, here.
