Amidst the chaos and fashion frenzy that is Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week, Pieter Mulier staged his Alaïa showcase in an intimate salon-style affair which saw the likes of Naomi Campbell and Monica Bellucci in attendance. The French designer, despite not showing haute couture creations, has became quite the staple of the couture calendar since becoming creative director of Alaïa in 2021. Mulier invited guests inside the Alaïa boutique on Rue Marignan for the occasion, to display the unrivaled techniques and one-of-a-kind silhouettes of the Alaïa ateliers – every garment knitted from a single yarn of merino wool. Drawing inspo from the rich Azzedine Alaïa archives, Mulier based the collection on “the curves of women, and the circles of chosen friends, of chosen family, an idea essential to the essence of Alaïa” and less always meaning more.
Read below the reactions of theFashionSpot’s forum members:
“Oh I think this looks fabulous shockingly!” [TianCouture]
“Oh this looks stunning. The fluid silhouettes are so luxurious. That gray double-lapel piece is just gorgeous. Also, THIS is how you do volume – it’s natural and integral to the piece.” [GoldenPetals]
“Never met an Alaïa collection crafted by Pieter Mulier that I didn’t like – and this is no exception. Not a single piece I’m able to sit here and critique, every last look is just sublime and exquisitely executed. Mulier’s collections are always so beautifully presented too. It feels like a fresh take on Alaïa’s legacy, and I’m able to appreciate that. A massive fan of ALL of this!” [vogue28]
“Despite his experimental effort, those silhouettes he built on his own clinical minimalism just doesn’t work for this brand whose master’s philosophy is always about catering to the female form and designing around the female body.” [JohannesL]
“It looks very cumbersome, and lacks any kind of sensuality.” [Kennnnn]
“Very cold and cumbersome. But what’s odd about it is that a lot of the designs are so minimal and exposing yet they look very precarious in a compromising way.” [Cocteau Stone]
“Mulier’s Alaïa is unbearably cold, hollow and dry. There’s no warmth, no passion, no understanding of what was so appealing about Azzedine’s work. None of Pieter’s clothes have ever looked comfortable or easy to wear.” [lookatme]
See all the looks from the Alaïa Fall 2024 collection and join the conversation, here.
