PFW Fall 2021 Hits and Misses
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HIT: Thom Browne
"One of the very few collections this season that I'll remember." [Machinegumm]
"Lovely imagery. His most interesting offering in a very long, long, long time..." [Phuel]
"I love it and I will say it again: I want him at Chanel!" [WAVES]
See all the looks from the Thom Browne collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Chanel
"This looks more like Anna Sui than Chanel." [Salvatore]
"Ugh! Everything looks so dated, heavy and badly cut. Virginie Viard clearly has nothing new to offer to this house anymore..." [Mercredi]
"It all looks like when you enter a random consignment store and there are some random Chanel pieces that were sold by some granny..." [90sFan]
See all the looks from the Chanel collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Balmain
"The first collection under Olivier Rousteing that I liked." [caioherrero]
"This is a good departure from what we have been used to these last few years. It’s refreshing and while there are still some tacky details, there are pieces and silhouettes that I find incredibly desirable, modern and that I would actually buy!" [Lola701]
"Not bad. The fist quarter of the show was quite nice." [TaylorBinque]
See all the looks from the Balmain collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Louis Vuitton
"My eyes hurt. There are barely any proportions or fits that work for me, the whole collection is completely overwhelming and underwhelming at the same time." [annikad]
"I think Nicolas Ghesquière has some interesting ideas, but failed to execute them." [JohannesL]
"It's literally impossible to spot a great piece when everything looks so busy, so distracting." [SRank]
See all the looks from the Louis Vuitton collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Schiaparelli
"I love it, I think Daniel Roseberry really found his footing here. It's just unapologetically flamboyant, exuberant fashion, such a joyful vibe that is all but lost nowadays." [Marc10]
"It has nerve, it’s feminine, extravagant but extremely chic." [WAVES]
"I must admit that I'm really liking the new direction of the house. It surely has brought Schiaparelli back into the conversation..." [apple]
See all the looks from the Schiaparelli collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Christian Dior
"I expected nothing, but Maria Grazia Chiuri still manages to disappoint me. Bravo." [Nomar]
"She should stop recycling those Valentino dresses which are so desperate for a house like Dior." [JohannesL]
"A waste of resources that ends up saying nothing at all...a better designer could have made something very special with that location." [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Christian Dior collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Lanvin
"This is pretty good. Bruno Sialelli's getting better as he goes on, moving away from that heavy-handed Loewe vibe to something more delicate, feminine and Parisian-looking, which is what people want from Lanvin." [Marc10]
"This collection has many Alber Elbaz references. Which I don't mind." [IloveDiorHomme]
"I really love it! It’s cheesy but it’s frivolous and that’s what Alber’s Lanvin was." [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Lanvin collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Givenchy
"It's lacking any kind of personal identity." [THD96]
"The water on the runway is so cliché. It's almost like he tried so hard to pull out all the tricks in the box. There's no real storytelling here. It's just a bunch of different pieces." [TaylorBinque]
"It looks so...Alexander Wang. Very dated NYFW idea of 'edgy streetwear'. It just doesn't feel elevated enough for Paris, let alone Givenchy. Those exposed breast looks were uncomfortable, tacky and demeaning." [Marc10]
See all the looks from the Givenchy collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Altuzarra
"I liked it. He moves so seamlessly between the knitwear outfits, which look so comfy, to those beautiful printed dresses. He's not changing the game, but he's doing what suits best for him and his brand." [Ruito]
"I'm really into the knitted looks and I'm a sucker for shawls so that part of the collection gets my approval..." [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Altuzarra collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Chloe
"A bunch of forgettable clothes with no vision whatsoever." [depordetioz]
"This is a disaster. Where's the luxury? Who wants to look like an old hippie lady who lives in a van? The shoes and bags are horrendous." [Marc10]
"There were moments when I thought I was watching a Coach show." [thiago:)]
See all the looks from the Chloe collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Miu Miu
"Great collection, I loved the styling and the yeti boots." [GERGIN]
"It is the first Miu Miu show styled by Lotta Volkova and I have to say, it's a really good debut. It's extremely quirky in a good way. She really understands the visual codes of this brand." [perhydrol]
"The dresses have that quirky but easy attitude to them. The fur boots are not my thing, but appropriate for the theme of this collection. The quilted jackets are so good and the knitwear is cute." [THD96]
See all the looks from the Miu Miu collection.
Image: Courtesy
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MISS: Giambattista Valli
"Fake Chanel meets Teen Vogue!" [jeanclaude]
"He's really desperate to get the Chanel gig, but of course it will never happen. It's too sweet and dull to handle. It's been the same look for so many years now that I don't have any hope he will make something meaningful again." [perhydrol]
"I guess this is what you buy when you can't afford Chanel." [THD96]
See all the looks from the Giambattista Valli collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Dries Van Noten
"This is amazing." [Nomar]
"I just knew he had it in him to redeem himself from his last two insipid collections, this is sublime and so exciting to go through. Dance-inspired shows always carry something else with them... There are so many beautiful outfits, I couldn't possibly list them all. Suffice to say it's the best I've seen this season." [YohjiAddict]
"An oasis of beauty among the sea of dumpster fire fashion shows this season." [disco54]
See all the looks from the Dries Van Noten collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Nina Ricci
"Clown show." [HeatherAnne]
"What's going on with those stupid hats? Is it their signature? The collection is very cheap-looking." [avonlea002]
"I don't think this direction works for Nina Ricci since the brand is always about femininity, elegance and hints of playfulness." [JohannesL]
See all the looks from the Nina Ricci collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Yohji Yamamoto
"Who else can make black look so different, dimensional and creative?" [apple]
"The way in which the fabric falls is magnificent. The detailing, such as the pocket placement, linen lining and flowing ropes that catch the air as the models walk, is simply enchanting." [Fulton St Critique]
"The atmosphere that these images ooze is enough to make me swoon. One of the few remaining designers who have kept their creative vision intact." [avonlea002]
See all the looks from the Yohji Yamamoto collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Paco Rabanne
"Julien Dossena really needs to chill because his work has been too literal." [perhydrol]
"That backdrop makes this look like a 2010 Bershka campaign...the clothes themselves are not that far off from a typical holiday capsule." [YohjiAddict]
"You could have told me that this was Nicolas Ghesquière’s new collection for Louis Vuitton and I wouldn’t even notice the difference." [Nomar]
See all the looks from the Paco Rabanne collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Rick Owens
"I think this is actually a great collection. Warriors of the sea, shape and form. Touches of metallic sex. I like it." [TianCouture]
"Such a needed presence in fashion amid a very prolonged period of drought. The gowns are particularly intriguing: they offer a strange meeting point between monastic and orgiastic, one thinks very perverse things must go down once these figures undress...sends the imagination flying." [YohjiAddict]
"The gowns are great and the silhouettes are so feminine yet strong and fierce." [WAVES]
See all the looks from the Rick Owens collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Jil Sander
"This collection feels like a bunch of different designers, such as Phoebe Philo for Celine or Acne Studios, but it's quite soulless and cold I would say." [perhydrol]
"It’s actually disappointing because Jil Sander has interesting archives, prints and details. But when you have a heritage brand, more than three decades worth of archives, why copy recent contemporary fashion?" [Lola701]
"This collection is an insult to the real queen/brand of minimalism!" [JohannesL]
See all the looks from the Jil Sander collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Alexandre Vauthier
"I love tailoring and this is fabulous. It’s honest, well-made and well-edited RTW. The white ruffled dress is fabulous, too." [Lola701]
"Frankly, there are some really straight-up strong pieces that can easily adapt to the individual woman’s style and taste. And if nothing else, it’s actually refreshing these days to see designs that accentuate a woman’s form rather than drown it out into some juvenile amoeba." [Phuel]
See all the looks from the Alexandre Vauthier collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Isabel Marant
"Overpriced Zara." [avonlea002]
"Not very special, there are thousands of Instagram accounts selling those awful early 90s jackets for at least 10 times less than what Isabel will charge for them, Vuitton's at least had some more sophisticated construction." [YohjiAddict]
"Zero evolution from her in the past 10 years, all her collections boringly bleed into the next. It's one thing to have a certain aesthetic, it's another thing to have zero growth or anything new to say." [HeatherAnne]
See all the looks from the Isabel Marant collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Courrèges
"Phenomenal debut! There's not a single bad look in this entire show!" [GERGIN]
"What a wonderful debut! It's a nice foundation to expand on in the future. I actually have high hopes after this show, it was full of life despite the clinical set and sharpness of the clothes." [perhydrol]
"It’s cleverly done! The styling is very Courrèges, but the pieces once separated are timeless and classic." [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Courrèges collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Hermes
"So boring and uninspired." [liberty33r1b]
"Salvatore Ferragamo x Max Mara much? It's inoffensive, but why hire Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski when the in-house team can do it themselves?" [THD96]
"Even Joseph Altuzarra would do Hermes better." [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Hermes collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Loewe
"I love it so much. Jonathan Anderson always delivers at Loewe. He made crafty looks sophisticated and elegant and not DIY." [THD96]
"Brilliant! A great collection presented with a beautiful lookbook, perfect styling... Love it!" [apple]
"Amazing collection, very unique and full of the Jonathan Anderson at Loewe glory." [dontbeadrag]
See all the looks from the Loewe collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Coperni
"The surrounding cars make some of the dresses look straight-up streetwalker-ish...never a good look!" [YohjiAddict]
"Looks like a bad marriage between Jacquemus and Alexander Wang." [THD96]
"This is bad, I had such high hopes for Coperni, this collection just looks like a watered-down Balenciaga collection, not to mention the runway screams Philipp Plein." [GERGIN]
See all the looks from the Coperni collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Marine Serre
"It's all just so...unappealing..." [tatouejeremie]
"Wow, when did Marine Serre get this bad? First half is very Vetements, but the second half reminds me of Riccardo Tisci at Burberry and that's not a compliment." [Benn98]
"Zero vision, zero creativity..." [jeanclaude]
See all the looks from the Marine Serre collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Patou
"Too much of everything, the quirky color palette and then those volumes that are nearing clown-wear territory." [YohjiAddict]
"It looks like someone wants to be noticed! It’s louder but unwearable. I don’t see the point of this!" [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Patou collection.
Image: Imaxtree
