Images: Imaxtree
Fashion month is officially over. Paris Fashion Week just wrapped after the industry’s elite took in all the Fall 2020 season had to offer. So now it’s time to see which collections our unfiltered fashion critics loved and loathed from the French capital.
Which designers reigned supreme?
Dries Van Noten slayed (like always). Bruno Sialelli finally delivered a divine Lanvin collection complete with an all-star cast. Anthony Vaccarello delved into the Yves Saint Laurent archives for his sexy spin on the signature codes of the iconic fashion house. Clare Waight Keller went all “French grande dame” on us, while Olivier Rousteing’s latest Balmain offering is a vast improvement from previous seasons.
Which designers missed the mark?
Sadly, the list is long and not so distinguished. Christian Dior really needs to find a replacement for Maria Grazia Chiuri. John Galliano needs to stop trying to make goat-toe shoes happen. Demna Gvasalia basically gave us Vetements on a Balenciaga budget. Meanwhile, Katie Grand is single-handedly running Miu Miu into the ground. And Chanel stumbles once again sans Karl Lagerfeld.
Ready to see which shows received rave reviews and which were roasted by our forum members? (Some of their favorites may actually surprise you.) Click through the slideshow to discover all the hits and misses of Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020.
Hits and Misses: Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020
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HIT: Dries Van Noten
"Mind-blowing! How come he delivers EVERY.SINGLE.SEASON! He's just the best, he's my favorite designer." [Ruito]
"A feast for the eyes. Wow. I can't even begin to process everything. What I love is that on a very quick initial view, he's managed to take very contemporary fashion tropes and twist them into his own bright and brash beauty here. Just great!" [Fiercification]
"He's one of a handful of designers who makes me want to throw out all my black and start mixing and matching colors and patterns and prints. This whole collection it just so chic and decadent." [lelaid]
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MISS: Chloe
"She HAS to change up the styling...looks the same as other seasons. Horrible shoes like always." [Scotty]
"Does she even know another color palette than this nude one? Some looks are OK, but honestly this is so uninspiring and dated. Not even the accessories can save this collection." [blusheels]
"I don’t know why, but after her first few seasons (which were perfect in my opinion) her collections started to blend in with each other. Nothing feels exciting. There are a few nice dresses here, but the rest looks like last season and the season before and so on. She needs to change it up a bit more." [LustforFashion]
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HIT: Kenzo
"So happy to see Felipe Oliveira Baptista's work back on the runway. Loved his work at Lacoste and love the horse prints and his take on the tiger motif." [kenndale]
"LOVE this! It’s a throwback to what fashion used to be — beautiful, desirable clothes that look great in a show and will look great in the store. It’s adult but feels very fresh, it neither panders to any kind of age demographic, nor to Instagram and it feels personal, like the work of a designer as opposed to a marketing team." [donyan]
"The men's outerwear is really high fashion and beautiful. It is a departure from the youthful streetwear look they had before, but let's face it, it was getting a bit dated." [Yasouss]
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MISS: Christian Dior
"Anyone with insomnia, we found a cure which involves no prescription medication..." [disco54]
"Everything sucks! The collection is boring, the colors are boring, the casting is boring, her muse is boring (remember Karlie Kloss opening all the shows?). Plus, it's a hundred looks!" [Scotty]
"I have no words for this." [Mrs.T]
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HIT: Lanvin
"Let this be the start of Lanvin's resurrection!" [khyrk]
"Zero complaints here, thoroughly enjoyed looking at this collection, think it's sophisticated and very elegant." [vogue28]
"Yes, Lanvin, go! So beautiful! A little bit too Prada meets Loewe, but still a really nice direction!" [dontbeadrag]
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MISS: Maison Margiela
"Goat-toe shoes are not going to be a thing. I feel like this was sent down the runway so someone backstage could laugh at our reactions." [dfl-001]
"Hmm...a step back... I think Galliano needs to let the RTW breathe and become a bit easier. Let couture be the place for wild imagination and experimentation." [dior_couture1245]
"Does this stuff make it to production and stores? I just never see it when I'm in the stores, but I'm also not looking for it." [reese06]
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HIT: Saint Laurent
"WOW. This collection is stunning, incredible and something I have been waiting for. This makes me so excited about fashion again! Stellar collection." [Salvatore]
"Finally something different from Anthony Vaccarello! This is an incredible collection, I honestly didn’t think he was capable of something like this. The colors, silhouettes and textures are great. So French, so cool and so chic." [Nomar]
"The type of collection to make me go weak at the knees and that I'm very eager to see both in print and the accompanying advertising campaign. Anthony Vaccarello has won me over, once again, even with the latex leggings and those killer heels. I could rave about this all day..." [vogue28]
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MISS: Marine Serre
"Her brand is pointless." [dior_couture1245]
"So at what point did Marine Serre evolve into a knockoff Richard Quinn?" [Benn98}
"Feels like a graduation show..." [jeanclaude]
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HIT: Kenneth Ize
"This is a very good and well thought collection. It’s wearable, it’s commercial in a good way and it’s kinda desirable." [Lola701]
"It's full of joy, freshness, elegance and vibrancy. Finally a collection this season that makes my heart jump." [FashionFanatico]
"This guy is brilliant. And I reckon someone at Missoni should pick up the phone and ask him to consult." [bc collector]
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MISS: Lemaire
"I lost my interest seasons ago. There is something, but it never really surfaces." [Nymphaea]
"BOOORING! Even The Row was better this season." [Ruito]
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HIT: Balmain
"A VAST improvement from last season and think there's a handful of great pieces here. I'm particularly fond of the capes, the molded leather body corsets and those fluid silk dresses toward the end." [vogue28]
"Wowwww! I loved this collection. The casting really sold it for me and transported me to a different era." [Akhmatova]
"Those sculpted leather tops are incredible, the cape dresses are incredible, Helena [Christensen]'s look is very chic and I see some great separates." [dodencebt]
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MISS: Paco Rabanne
"The proportions are ridiculous. Paco Rabanne is modern and cutting edge. Where does this fit into the brand DNA?" [GivenchyHomme]
"For a moment I thought I had stumbled into the Alexander McQueen thread." [Salvatore]
"Paco Rabanne by Sarah Burton. Completely random historical costumes and way too literal designs." [MagFan]
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HIT: Loewe
"It never fails to impress me how well he does traditional elegance. It's never boring, never too precious and always exciting. Like in the menswear, best coats of the season. So luxurious." [Marc10]
"What a wonderful collection. Very rich in color and texture indeed and the volumes were incredible as always. The opera coats here were masterfully executed." [dodencebt]
"That white knitted dress in the end, oh my god. This dress alone slayed all the competition this fashion month." [dontbeadrag]
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MISS: Balenciaga
"This is Vetements with a bigger budget. Season after season he sends out basic merchandise mixed with some disgusting garments just to make it 'fashun' enough for the Insta crowd." [avonlea002]
"Lots of theatrics to cover up just how entirely dull this collection is. Not to mention the obnoxiousness of splashing water over clothes that cost what these do." [HeatherAnne]
"Talk about an inconsistent heap of garbage! He literally sent out football uniforms, motorbike protective gear and judges' robes in one collection. With NO creativity." [billiejbob]
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HIT: Altuzarra
"I think this was a very thoughtful, elegant collection. His collections in Paris have been a little bit heavy-handed and missing the sophistication of when he presented in New York, but this was very nice!" [Ruito]
"I think this is one of his better collections. Theoretically everything here works — the collection is consistent, the clothes look well done, the styling is good..." [avonlea002]
"There are some stunning dresses, knitwear is great and those dresses with the cut-outs." [gossiping]
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MISS: Comme des Garçons
"A 'greatest hits' collection from Rei feels strange because she is always pursuing the new...it seems she wasn't inspired for this collection." [jeanclaude]
"Almost like a Central Saint Martins graduate collection." [dontbeadrag]
"I just hope Rei takes on a challenge for next year and works with easy clothes and draping again like back in the 80s. Just to see if she would have something alternative and new to do with them..." [rip_ian curtis]
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HIT: Haider Ackermann
"Stunning! Pure! Effective! That’s how you do a coed show! I often talk about identity and this is it. By the cut only, you can recognize a Haider suit among a thousand others." [Lola701]
"His strongest in a while, so good — especially the menswear. Love how it was broken down into little sections. It's simple but incredibly concise." [Marc10]
"Glorious simplicity. I loved the short cream jacket and the black blazer with a nipped-in waist. For women, the faux miniskirt in wool was such a beautiful look, like Helmut but much more luxurious. It will definitely make my top 10." [YohjiAddict]
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MISS: Valentino
"What an awful collection that is just mediocre at best. I'm not even the biggest fan of his couture, but this collection makes them look like they were designed by different people. Big yikes." [Nomar]
"The collection itself was boring and reminiscent of other designers. Looked like something straight from the department store. I also find it laughable how brands keep showing their versions of Bottega Veneta bags. Please stop because the results are cringeworthy at best." [avonlea002]
"For me each season is worse and worse. This one was just boring. Black, red, nude, sheer. Wow. Groundbreaking!" [Hafdis]
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HIT: Junya Watanabe
"LOVE! All the leather pieces are great." [Marc10]
"One of his best collections in ages (probably since Fall 2015 for me). It's so odd to think that Debbie Harry could be an influence for Junya and yet it all makes sense given his affinity for leather. Many fantastic pieces (particularly in that tone of red) and the details make the quality of the garments that much more desirable." [Fiercification]
"Punkity punk! I love the harness bags and that tweet-leather hybrid coat." [Not Plain Jane]
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MISS: Celine
"I couldn't tell the difference between his many collections both at YSL and Celine if my life depended on it. I always have a feeling like I'm looking at the previous season or the one before..." [aracic]
"Looks coming to a Zara near you." [Nomar]
"It's like no one expects him to continue Philo's legacy at Celine, but it's just awful that he's doing the same thing over and over again. When you're the creative director of such an iconic house, at least try a bit harder." [blusheels]
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HIT: Givenchy
"Always enjoy Clare Waight Keller's Givenchy because everything always looks so elegant, sharp and sophisticated — this collection being no exception. Everything looks immaculate, luxurious and impeccably cut. A whole host of beautiful looks here, almost too many to single out..." [vogue28]
"Very French grande dame, I'm into it." [HeatherAnne]
"Stunning collection, absolutely loved it. Great show with an amazing atmosphere and a wonderful cast." [Scouting Snapper]
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MISS: Thom Browne
"This might just be my least favorite collection of the whole month and that’s putting it nicely." [donyan]
"How long is he going to drag out this winter wonderland menagerie? Sheesh..." [Phuel]
"OK, how many more collections can we handle from him that are just. like. this." [TianCouture]
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HIT: Olivier Theyskens
"His best collection yet! Simple, effective with a great sensual mood!" [Lola701]
"His gowns are always spectacular. I can't wait for his Azzaro debut." [avonlea002]
"Just lovely, the back of that jacket is what dreams are made of. The cutting is absolutely flawless. The kind of show one doesn't believe can take place nowadays — actual clothes that are classic, expensive and well designed." [YohjiAddict]
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MISS: Hermes
"This is not Hermes, this is downright ugly. It should be elegant, chic, expensive, etc. The previous designers understood this, this current designer clearly does not." [Nymphaea]
"Her Hermes is absolutely charmless. There’s no wit, no play, no lightness...not even a wink. Hermes stands for the kind of wealth and subsequent lifestyle that treat money like it’s everything and nothing. Her clothing does not reflect that." [dior_couture1245]
"It’s trying too hard to be fashion for my taste. Hermes should be above fashion and it’s something the three previous creative directors understood." [Lola701]
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HIT: Mugler
"I have really grown to love Casey's vision for Mugler. It's so unashamedly sexy and he's developing his style quite well. The second last look is absolutely divine." [Nomar]
"Sexy and beautiful all the way. I love the casting and the silhouettes. It seems a bit smaller than his last show. I hope he is doing well in the company because I like his take on Mugler." [Yasouss]
"LaQuan Smith should take notes." [avonlea002]
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MISS: Vivienne Westwood
"What's the point?" [avonlea002]
"Galliano does it much better." [dontbeadrag]
"'Buy less!' says the brand showing layers and layers of clothes..." [jeanclaude]
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HIT: Sacai
"Chitose Abe's best collection in recent time! It’s amazing how things can work when you just let clothes breathe." [Lola701]
"Very nice and much more restrained than usual, her collections can be a case of too much of a good thing, but this had the ideal balance." [YohjiAddict]
"This is really good. Her collections seem like they can be overdesigned, but it looks like she finally figured out when to tell her patternmakers to put their scissors down. It's definitely more toned-down from what we're used to, but her voice is still 100 percent there." [eugenius]
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MISS: Off-White
"Hilariously bad. As usual." [mistress_f]
"The tailoring is HORRIBLE...some of the seams on the dresses look like they will fall apart." [disco54]
"Virgil gets fat paychecks from Louis Vuitton and yet he can't hire proper tailors and patternmakers." [avonlea002]
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HIT: Giambattista Valli
"Beautiful and classical. Ten years from now, these pieces will still be beautiful. That's what I like about this collection." [dfl-001]
"This will always be so beautiful, I love his stuff." [gossiping]
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MISS: Alexander McQueen
"This is so insanely pedestrian and cheap-looking. And why does Sarah Burton insist on this color palette all the time? Red, blue, pink and black is such a NYFW color palette." [dior_couture1245]
"God I loathe this woman. I simply can't stand her era of McQueen even at its best, but this must be one of the worst collections I've seen her produce, it's absolutely disgusting..." [aracic]
"I expect nothing and I'm still let down. Considering it was Alexander's 10th anniversary last month, I expected more. But deep down I knew that it wouldn't be anything special." [Hafdis]
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HIT: Lacoste
"I love the colors!" [mathiaskatz]
"I love Louise Trotter's work for Lacoste! I have now that feeling of 'I need that piece' that I never had before with Lacoste." [Lola701]
"I really need that apple green coat that He Cong is wearing. Some nice pieces of clothing here, lovely cast as well. Enjoyed this show..." [Scouting Snapper]
See all the looks from the Lacoste collection. -
MISS: Yeezy
"This is still a thing, huh? How anyone in any industry can still give Kanye a hint of attention at this point is beyond me. Sad for everyone involved." [mistress_f]
"It's like he's trying to be Rick Owens 2.0 or something, it's so ugly and pointless." [aracic]
"Shameless." [Nomar]
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MISS: Rick Owens
"I just don’t care about him anymore." [dior_couture1245]
"This is too similar to the menswear. It seems like someone is in his comfort zone." [helmutnotdead]
"Such a letdown after the incredible spring collection (which was probably my fave collection in recent times, not just his, in general)..." [mistress_f]
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MISS: Isabel Marant
"I feel like other designers do Isabel Marant better these days." [Vitamine W]
"Oooh, the shoulders are making every one of the models look like the hunchback of Notre Dame! Dial it down a notch Isabel." [whippie]
"I'm literally so confused because Spring 2020 was so cool and sexy and summery and this is so...whatever? It's too plain and blah. Why is it so covered up? Where is the skin?" [TianCouture]
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MISS: Ann Demeulemeester
"This looks like budget Rick Owens." [Nomar]
"Not much substance here, actually no substance. We have seen similar headpieces at Rick Owens." [Nymphaea]
"Awful, that shade of green is something I wish I could unsee." [YohjiAddict]
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MISS: Chanel
"This looks so passionless and sad, like a cheap version of Chanel done somewhere as a diffusion line. I'm surprised no one says anything. Or maybe they just don't see it?" [donyan]
"It's faithful to the brand codes, but totally lackluster. In a word, dull." [bc collector]
"Chanel is turning into the Armani of Paris. Ugly apparel for rich old people (no offense). Sigh. The pants are seriously so bad." [Royal-Galliano]
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MISS: Louis Vuitton
"I miss the days when Nicolas had no theatrics, just the clothes and the models on the runway in his Balenciaga era. His LV has never gelled with me. I feel like structure and architectural-based design suits his technique more than this weird eccentricity he keeps pushing with LV." [perfect blue]
"The styling is really killing these clothes for me." [RedSmokeRise]
"Why is everything he designs for LV so ugly? So heavy? So unflattering? So tricky and gimmicky? And overworked? And poorly styled? It’s all such an absolute mess of everything and I hate it." [dior_couture1245]
See all the looks from the Louis Vuitton collection. -
MISS: Miu Miu
"When was the last time Miu Miu had a good collection? I can't even remember. Katie Grand just needs to go." [Nomar]
"When the art deco carpet is more interesting than the clothes, there is a huge problem!" [jeanclaude]
"I don't know what's going on with Miu Miu anymore. If you're showing on the last day of Paris, you better BRING IT!" [RedSmokeRise]
See all the looks from the Miu Miu collection.
