Images: Imaxtree
Milan Fashion Week is officially over and it was nothing short of spectacular (despite Giorgio Armani showing his latest collection without an audience due to coronavirus concerns). But if you’ve missed any of the Fall 2020 action over the last few days, we’ve got you covered.
Which designers reigned supreme?
Silvia Venturini Fendi, Fendi’s creative director post-Karl Lagerfeld, proved she’s one to watch by supplying an exquisite collection. She also enlisted Jill Kortleve and Paloma Elsesser as the first-ever plus-size models to walk in a Fendi show. Jeremy Scott brought some fun to Milan Fashion Week with his Marie Antoinette-inspired Moschino offering with models morphing into the queen sporting her elaborate hairstyle and pannier dresses (mixed with Scott’s signature flair, of course). Prada impressed with a “classic” collection and Dolce & Gabbana finally found its way back into our forum members’ good graces.
Which designers missed the mark?
Donatella Versace couldn’t top Jennifer Lopez’s catwalk moment from last season. Ian Griffiths completely forgot who the Max Mara customer is. The Emilio Pucci revival was downright disappointing. And Alessandro Michele actually inspired our forums to start rooting for a Frida Giannini comeback.
As usual, our very own army of fashion critics has been checking out all the shows over in Italy’s fashion capital. Click through the slideshow above to check out all the hits and misses of Milan Fashion Week Fall 2020.
Hits and Misses Milan Fashion Week Fall 2020
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HIT: Moschino
"Fun to watch as a show. Pure show business instead of clothes business!" [jeanclaude]
"I appreciate the fun Jeremy Scott brings to dull fashion weeks season after season. It's usually pretty cheap and borderline carnival costumes, but it's fun and it's different and there's always a story going on." [aracic]
"A fun show as always! Granted, I'd never wear any of it, but I appreciate seeing a collection these days that doesn't look like it was designed at gunpoint." [Machinegumm]
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MISS: Marni
"The remnants collection." [Nymphaea]
"Francesco Risso out here not trying to lose the worst collection in Milan title again. Gotta admire his dedication to making the absolute most vile clothes possible in the last 18 months. Feel bad for the Marni brand, they used to make nice clothes not too long ago..." [Scouting Snapper]
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HIT: Fendi
"I love, love this collection! My fave so far this season. Silvia is a great successor for Karl." [cosmicangel]
"Goosebumps. I'm so overjoyed by this. It seems like Silvia just brushed off all the doubts about her ability to lead the womenswear department... This is extremely fabulous." [TaylorBinque]
"What a strong show! Might be the show of Milan for me." [TianCouture]
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MISS: Bottega Veneta
"I am so underwhelmed. Everything is so messy and it’s just not a very good collection overall." [Nomar]
"You can always count on him when it comes to the ugliest shoes of the season." [avonlea002]
"Sadly in my opinion this collection is Daniel's worst so far. There's only one look that I really like, the lace shirt with those really high-waisted pants. The rest is just forgettable and ugly without any particular reason." [perhydrol]
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HIT: Prada
"Beautiful collection! Elegant and sophisticated. Miuccia just won the whole fashion month." [Ruito]
"Those puffer blazers are the freshest thing Miuccia has designed in years, I love them! Unless someone has done them before and I am ignorant about it, they are bound to be a hit. I think you can style them in endless ways. Other than that — great fringe pieces! The fringe really does look like hair, it's a great effect. And the skirts are great." [dodencebt]
"As crazy and self-referential as this collection is, this feels like classic Prada to me and I love it." [Nomar]
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MISS: Salvatore Ferragamo
"When I watched the show this morning, I felt disappointed at how muted the color palette was, the collection leaving me with an aftertaste of dullness. There's no strong message here..." [bc collector]
"There was something undeniably sexy about Paul Andrew's footwear. I thought that was his aesthetic and I’m kinda surprised to see how underwhelming his Ferragamo is. The colors are good and the first skirt is fabulous in a Prada way, but as a whole I’m confused." [Lola701]
"Was there a memo in Milan about fringe?" [Not Plain Jane]
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HIT: N°21
"One of the best designers in Milan right now. Alessandro Dell'Acqua always delivers beautiful, effortless and elegant clothes." [avonlea002]
"Nothing forced, contrived and desperately-seeking-to-be-down-with-the-kids gimmicks. Just simply irresistible and gorgeous womanly pieces that are quiet with the most unexpected flashes of the maverick — and all so sharply focused and tightly edited." [Phuel]
"Two things you can ALWAYS count on in his collections: texture and sex appeal galore!" [Not Plain Jane]
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MISS: Versace
"Black on black and some awful prints, another instantly forgettable show with no passion." [YohjiAddict]
"What an eyesore. There is everything — Balenciaga, Vetements, Tom Ford, Prada, Fendi, Givenchy. It's like she has taken the worst things from each and added the Versace tackiness. Versace is so desperate nowadays." [avonlea002]
"I hate it, too. Poverty and laziness behind this. You do menswear and womenswear fashion shows together and essentially reduce the costs and effort by half." [Aurimas]
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HIT: Jil Sander
"I think this is an amazing collection. I like this version of Jil Sander: fresh, clean and precise cuts. Also what a lovely diverse cast and the styling ain't bad, either." [Scouting Snapper]
"I love this collection and I think they are doing a great job. Everything looks so comfortable and elegant." [avonlea002]
"Good! It’s a little bit more coquettish, more upbeat, more urban! For me, that’s Jil Sander. It’s more important to get the philosophy of the brand than just doing clothes for the sake of it!" [Lola701]
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MISS: Emilio Pucci
"Stop trying to make Emilio Pucci happen, it's not going to happen!" [Ruito]
"And to think that Pucci was one of the most fabulous shows in Milan during Dundas' tenure. Hopefully their newly announced Moncler-like model of collaborations works because this brand is going straight to the grave." [dodencebt]
"Emilio is rolling over in his grave. This is sad." [avonlea002]
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HIT: Alberta Ferretti
"I do find myself admiring the work of Alberta Ferretti more and more each and every season and for me this collection is no exception. The girls always wear the clothes so effortlessly that it just looks fabulous. A handful of gorgeous leather items here and love the splash of bright color combinations throughout to break up the black and gray." [vogue28]
"There's a lot of Valentino/YSL/Isabel Marant in this collection. Still, I think it's absolutely gorgeous, tasteful and luxurious." [guimon]
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MISS: Max Mara
"Ugly as ****." [helmutnotdead]
"It looks dated. Everybody loves their teddy coats, but even that can’t save it. Carine [Roitfeld] has ruined all the shows she is involved with this season." [Lola701]
"Horrible collection, it’s like they completely forgot who their customer is." [liberty33r1b]
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HIT: Ports 1961
"When you have a great team, everything feels more elevated and desirable." [Lola701]
"The jackets and the chains are sublime. I have a soft spot for this brand, I love the simple albeit bit dated luxury of it." [Yasouss]
"Stronger than last season overall I think. A few missteps, particularly those face print dresses (a little too Prada-esque for comfort), but on the whole a really strong outing. Lots of great coats, particularly the opening section and houndstooth. The boots seem a little obnoxious with the sandal/necklace detail, but I kind of dig it." [Fiercification]
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MISS: Gucci
"I just wish Gucci would hire someone that makes sexy and sleek clothes again... I'm so over this weird ugly aesthetic. I really miss going to Gucci shows and watching stunning models strut down the runway. Lord knows I miss Frida Giannini's days at this great house." [Scouting Snapper]
"This is the first Gucci collection I don’t like. It doesn’t have the usual poetic strangeness and kooky beauty that I’ve always liked in his collections. Instead, this feels like he’s mocking the people he’s dressing and, for the first time, it comes across as detached and cynical." [donyan]
"Another lazy, boring and ugly collection. I bet it took them less than a day to 'design' it. Alessandro is the Italian version of Anna Sui." [avonlea002]
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HIT: Boss
"Simply stunning collection, my favorite in Milan. Exquisite color palette. Bravo!" [Scouting Snapper]
"The look on Kiki [Willems] is basically perfection." [Fiercification]
"It makes so much sense for Boss to show in Milan. This is a great collection! A bit too long, but great and very good color palette." [Lola701]
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HIT: Dolce & Gabbana
"This is the first D&G show I've liked in years! Loved the grunge, masculine yet sexy vibe. Very dark romance in a way, which I guess having Amy Winehouse tunes as the soundtrack helped setting this mood a lot! Really cool knitwear pieces as well as those knit oversize bags." [blusheels]
"Pleasantly surprised by the restrained and subdued designs that are very reminiscent of their late-80s charm and romanticism: that image of the Sicilian young, quiet widow in all black, but also the refined corsetry under the huge lush knits. The textures in this collection are supreme." [Phuel]
"A Dolce & Gabbana collection with a theme and without millennial influencers is a dream come true." [Koibito]
