Images: Imaxtree
Not even a crowd of protestors deterred the fashion pack from soaking up the brand new Spring 2020 collections at London Fashion Week. From Erdem staging an “elevated and expansive” collection in the gardens at Gray’s Inn to Margaret Howell going minimalist with her signature white catwalk, this season across the pond has been one to remember.
And now that all the London shows have wrapped, our forum members are busy dissecting all the pros and cons. Matty Bovan’s colorful creations were hard to miss, Victoria Beckham seemed slightly less obsessed with Phoebe Philo and Hussein Chalayan’s breathtaking craftsmanship was simply stunning.
Read on to discover all the hits, misses and surprises from London Fashion Week Spring 2020. See you in Milan!
Hits and Misses: LFW Spring 2020
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HIT: Victoria Beckham
"This is quite lovely. Refreshingly relaxed and feminine from her. It echoes late 00s Chloe, Lanvin, McCartney, YSL in a way...all those flowy dresses are great. Hope she keeps moving toward this direction. It's about time to leave the Phoebe-ism behind." [Marc10]
"It's easy to scoff at this because it's Victoria Beckham, but I won't make that mistake. This collection is solid. More so than in recent seasons." [Mutterlein]
"This is quite lovely. I have come to expect that VB will never put out original designs. But somehow this feels closer to the VB before Celine. It's more feminine with lots of good tailoring." [TaylorBinque]
See all the looks from the Victoria Beckham collection. -
MISS: Marques ' Almeida
"That chartreuse opera coat and those oversized tulip skirts that look like small camping tents are what nightmares are made of." [YohjiAddict]
"They need to learn how to edit." [Nomar]
"Very disappointed by my countrymen this season. Better luck next time!" [Ruito]
See all the looks from the Marques ' Almeida collection. -
HIT: JW Anderson
"This is beyond good! Major shopping desire after this show! So good! Fabulous and ambitious tailoring... The blue draped top worn with the white skirt is pure love." [Lola701]
"The black and silver coats, that blue dress on Adut and the aforementioned ribbon suits are so beautifully proportioned and constructed. What's not to love?" [YohjiAddict]
"SO FREAKING GOOD. It's amazing how elevated his work is getting... He really found a perfect balance of glamour and pushing ideas. Like last season, this feels quite luxurious, but never precious or too serious. So many great details and use of fabrics, a real fresh take on the 70s. I love the rhinestone cut-outs and those little mohair dresses." [Marc10]
See all the looks from the JW Anderson collection. -
MISS: Christopher Kane
"It's a very 'Kane' collection with all of his signature elements and motifs, however it feels quite unrefined. It looks a bit like he tried to shove everything he could into the collection." [Nomar]
"This is the problem when you've made your name being a 'trendy' designer...one day you'll be out of sync with what's cool. This collection looks like something out of 2014." [Fiercification]
"He always has good ideas, but he’s been losing the plot the last few years and I think I finally can put my finger on what’s gone wrong. That lack of a decisive silhouette and the inclusion of too many gimmicks really are problems." [dior_couture1245]
See all the looks from the Christopher Kane collection. -
HIT: Margaret Howell
"Personally I love Margaret Howell and I covet her clothes. The fabrics are fantastic and they're beautifully made." [Mutterlein]
"Just beautiful — prints, cuts, colors. I love it!" [Not Plain Jane]
"I just love how Margaret does her own thing. Again, these are beautiful and classic pieces for the everyday wardrobe. The styling is always on point as well." [Nomar]
See all the looks from the Margaret Howell collection. -
MISS: Roland Mouret
"This looks like a very messy and poor Jacquemus collection." [Nomar]
"I feel like everybody is doing the same kind of clothes..." [Lola701]
"I didn't want to look at this and then in a high-pitched, whiny voice I thought: 'Do I need to?' And it turns out I didn't." [Mutterlein]
See all the looks from the Roland Mouret collection. -
HIT: Chalayan
"We don't deserve you. This is such a smooth collection. I always love the way he constructs clothes." [TaylorBinque]
"Just for the very fact of being the very opposite of the kind of designers being hyped these days (PR whores, technically inept, social media darlings, marketing stunts, etc.), I hold him in high regard." [bc collector]
"Such a smooth collection! It's not cool, but warm and honest." [FashionFanatico]
See all the looks from the Chalayan collection. -
MISS: Matty Bovan
"How utterly awful. Different purely for the sake of being different, no depth here." [TianCouture]
"Another graduate from Central Saint Martins with a graduation-like collection." [jeanclaude]
"It's exactly what you expect to come out of London and a graduate from CSM. It's that attitude of 'Let's shock and push the envelope,' but I don't feel moved because I've seen this aesthetic, if you can call it that, so many times before. It will capture eyes for a while and maybe it could get him hired at a large fashion house, but I don't imagine he'd be doing this type of work there." [Salvatore]
See all the looks from the Matty Bovan collection. -
HIT: Simone Rocha
"Lovely, lovely collection and perfectly styled, too. For so long she was part of a new wave of young British talent. But I think she's moved past that. She's part of the establishment now. Well done and well earned." [Mutterlein]
"A beautiful dream. Exquisite layering. Like fine china wrapped in feathery soft silkiness." [MissMagAddict]
"Such a beautiful and romantic collection. What I adore the most about Simone's work is that she really commits to her work. She designs with a precise focus and passion to learn more. She is able to expand her vocabulary while still writing the same story. Yet each paragraph continues to excite and feels refreshing." [TaylorBinque]
See all the looks from the Simone Rocha collection. -
MISS: Burberry
"This is so uninspired and lazy. It's very reminiscent of his last few collections for Givenchy, which were equally mediocre. He's not feeling it and it shows." [GivenchyHomme]
"God, what a sad mess. So many looks yet so little inspiration. Nothing here feels new or innovative, it's a waste of resources and everyone's time! I don't understand the purpose of a fashion show nowadays. This would have the same impact if it was presented on mannequins set up around a studio — it's lifeless. There's no soul, no identity, nothing." [aracic]
"Once again, a pretty collection of nothing. His Burberry is painfully unmemorable, a problem exacerbated by the need to show what's effectively an entire store's worth of product in one show. So how could anyone remember anything? A lot of this stuff needs to be relegated to a lookbook!" [Fiercification]
See all the looks from the Burberry collection. -
HIT: Erdem
"I love how he's been turning up the drama recently. This is so great! Very elevated and expansive. The hats are to die for, really good styling." [Marc10]
"I will always enjoy a Tina Modotti dream." [MissMagAddict]
"I am so in love with this collection. London Fashion Week has been unusually romantic this season." [Ruito]
See all the looks from the Erdem collection. -
HIT: Ports 1961
"Kind of refreshing after NYFW." [perfect blue]
"I love this! Some lovely looks." [tjasmine]
"I didn't realize that Karl Templer essentially designed this collection. And for me, to that end, it doesn't look predictable, which has its pluses and minuses. It has that kind of Consuelo-era Marni thing going on with a touch of the feeling from Prada Spring 2005 and while it doesn't rock my world, the collection is quite elegant and polished. I can get down with it, but I'm more interested to see where this collab goes in the future." [Fiercification]
See all the looks from the Ports 1961 collection. -
HIT: Dilara Findikoglu
"Love her stuff. This one is a bit uneven, but still great. The closing look is everything!" [Marc10]
"Love her work!" [Machinegumm]
"Somehow guessed it was a Central Saint Martins alum's collection just by looking at it. I think she has potential!" [perfect blue]
See all the looks from the Dilara Findikoglu collection.
