Jil Sander Fall 2014 Runway Review

The Scene: Jil Sander has had some well-publicized drama the past few seasons and according to the show notes, this season was about “addressing and restating the fundamental codes of the Jil Sander label, reinforcing the emblems of the house.” The Twitterverse was quick to label this collection menswear-inspired, but I found it to be an excellent example of the new genderless dressing we’ve seen on runways from Donna Karan to The Row. The trend is epitomized by clothing that allows a woman to look feminine without invoking any traditionally “feminine” details. A tuck here and a drape there is all it took for Jil Sander.

The Look: The overall aesthetic was clean, modern chic. Subtle details in draping and fit kept it on the more interesting side of minimalist. It was accessible, yet supremely stylish. There were some pants and sweater combos you could totally see a girl in your office wearing, and then some pieces you’d expect on a high-level luxury brand executive. Despite this general wearability, the pants — often cropped at the ankle, sometimes with a hint of drop-crotch — might be hard for regular women to pull off. The color palette was truly sublime. It followed the trend we’re seeing of typically spring-like prints and colors being used for fall. Almost everything was monochrome, progressing through ecru to some soft pinks and teals to more saturated rusts and greens, with some black for good measure.

The Accessories: There were very interesting platform oxfords in yellow, green and brown, sometimes contrasting the color of the outfit, sometimes staying monochrome. Also some booties paired with ankle-cropped pants.

The Beauty: Natural, effortless beauty. Definitely fresh-faced, “no-makeup” makeup. And naturally straight hair, parted in the middle, sometimes tucked behind the ears.

The Takeaway: Nothing groundbreaking here — maybe not the collection to redefine the house, but definitely a solid footing to move on from. These are the kind of clothes that in real life would make you remember how chic the girl was, not the fabulous thing she was wearing.

All images: IMAXtree