The Fashion Spot forums weigh in on some of the highs (Hussein Chalayan, Lanvin, Haider Ackermann) and lows (Balenciaga, Thierry Mugler, Isabel Marant) in Paris thus far for Fall 2011 fashion week.
The Hits: Hussein Chalayan, Lanvin, Haider Ackermann
THE HITS:
“It’s so good… there are so many amazing things going on within these deceptively minimal pieces. Restrained and executed with finesse.” [Inaya]
“Such a brilliant collection of clothing… love the symmetry… love the asymmetry… love the fabric, the prints, the shapes… love it all… Here is my prayer to the fashion Gods… may the buyers buy it all and may the stores carry it all and may at least some portion of it be remotely affordable.” [softgrey]
“Swooning! This is modern minimalism at its finest. I love the way this was styled; the low-cut blazers with nothing underneath are accentuated against the high turtlenecks. This collection seems a study in contrasts—light against dark, sleek against oversized, structured versus flowing pieces. It’s sexy as can be.” [HeatherAnne]
“I’ve seen a lot of gorgeous collections in the last few weeks… but I keep coming back to this one. It’s just so beyond that I don’t even know how to describe it. Chalayan has always been a favorite but he is working his way up there again. Where everyone else is a mere designer, he is an artist. Some of the lines here make me want to weep.” [cygnenoir]
Read our review and see images from the Hussein Chalayan collection.
“Beautiful, fantastic, gorgeous! Capes, black, red, fantastic boots! Alber [Elbaz] is genius and he can’t go wrong for me. I would wear everything! Favorite collection so far!!!” [OnlyChicAllowed]
“This officially gets a wow from me. Alber [Elbaz] delivered a wonderful, refined, and luxurious collection… He never fails to experiment and challenge himself to create something new, but still remain true to his aesthetic at Lanvin. This collection is a lot cleaner and more minimal. The silhouettes are glorious. There is such a wide range here; variety of outwear, dresses, and beautiful textiles. The jewelry and accessories are always a joy to see as they are always also the stars of the show. Love, love, love the proportions! Thank you Alber, thank you.” [Ives927]
“So great to see him making a departure. This is actually quite reminiscent of his work at YSL… and it’s great that he has included more daywear than usual… his evening party looks are always fun and flirty but every woman needs some real clothes and these are great… the accessories really rock my world.” [softgrey]
Read our review and see images from the Lanvin collection.
“Love this… All the cut-away pieces really work and the huge belts are sensational. [I] love how the belts are all strategically placed, including across one model’s chest. Great colors too.” [Northern Star]
“He nails it again. Honestly, everything he touches turns to gold for me, he just ticks all the boxes. I love the color he’s been using recently too, and the textures and fabrics just look wonderful.” [rosalynn]
“The color palette and the way he makes fabric bunch and cascade are just phenomenal. I was eager for this collection and it does not disappoint: it has a darkness… but Ackerman seems to be also a romantic… It is like you can ‘expect the unexpected’ with Ackerman though – the belts across the chests, the cut-outs at the hips – but not in a gimmicky way at all; he is all about the form and the fabric. Lovely.” [Not Plan Jane]
“I LOVE this, it’s a nice follow-up to his fantastic spring collection. It’s nice to see those slits and cuts again. The color palette is expected for fall but works extremely nice here and the way the belts are styled is the way belts should be styled. They work so well with the outfits and don’t feel like the usual add-ons one usually sees on the runway.” [saann]
“My favorite collection of the season so far. Ackermann has become one of the highlights of Paris Fashion Week. He has such a way with fabric, it really blows me away, and it’s nice to see the appropriately moody colors, with the unexpected the touch of sequins.” [hautechild]
Read our review and see images from the Haider Ackermann collection.
The Misses: Balenciaga, Thierry Mugler, Isabel Marant
THE MISSES:
“This is so mediocre for Ghesquiere. Though the cuts and the shapes are really interesting, there’s a lack of imagination. The collection has all the right elements: interesting fabrics, asymmetrical shapes and loads of space for cool shapes and angles. But it just didn’t come out right.” [Squizree]
“Is it just me or does this feel a bit recycled? It’s a bit ‘Best Of’ in terms of design and it feels, for the first time, without direction. Usually he has such a distinct and directional message about his Balenciaga woman/aesthetic with each season. Last season it was going somewhere punk. What exactly is he saying here with this collection? Disappointed. Was expecting much more from him.” [helmut.newton]
“Not a stellar collection this season unfortunately. It does follow the typical ‘Ghesquiere’ Balenciaga silhouette but it’s very basic. I’m sure the collection is more focused on the technically brilliant fabrics and construction, as usual with Balenciaga, but on the whole not very stimulating.” [alittlehope]
“I absolutely despise the baroque accessories. They’re random and cheap especially for Balenciaga. The giant leather knits reminds me of intestines. It’s also a bit too repetitive. As of right now I am very disappointed.” [GivenchyHomme]
Read our review and see images from the Balenciaga collection.
“This is sad as Mugler is such a legend… one of the great theatrical, technically-skilled saints the fashion world will ever see. He never needed such hype; his work was the statement and show all on it’s own. This whole spectacle is a real shame… if Gaga and Formichetti had souls at all, they’d stop reducing the grand legacy of artists like McQueen and Mugler to nothing but insipid gimmicks.” [Inaya]
“This was mediocrity at its maximum. Nothing new or original… It’s such a shame, this is not Thierry Mugler at all. I know it’s not the same person but this new designer should have respected what this house is known for and should have taken a look at the archives. If I had to describe this in two words, they would be: tacky and gothic.” [Unknownpleasures]
“What complete and utter discombobulation. The clothes (and shoes) were extremely derivative and the presentation was a MESS. In these garments I do not see Mugler nor do I see the ‘anatomy of change’ HR Giger-ness that was supposed to be the inspiration. Just a lineup of Gaga outfits. I am only glad that this show was at the beginning of Paris fashion week so there will be a lot more shows coming up to help me forget!” [Jungla_Juana]
Read our review and see images from the Thierry Mugler collection.
“I’ve seen better collections inspired by Western. The boots with the tassels are so clichéd. I don’t find it particularly ugly; some of the looks are strong, but they could’ve done more with the Western inspiration than just a cookie cutter interpretation of it.” [Littleathquakes]
“Even seeing past the footwear-that-shall-be-ignored-with-effort, I just do not see a lot here to get excited about. Those boxy jacket cuts seem quite unflattering to me, and even some of the denim and leggings don’t look great in the show. The strongest pieces are the winter whites, especially in knits.” [Not Plain Jane]
“It looks like a French interpretation of an American mainstream interpretation of Native American clothing. It’s quite horrible.” [La Bordélique]
Read our review and see images from the Isabel Marant collection.
Photos: Vincenzo Grillo, IMAXtree; Hussein Chalayan image from style.com
