Guide to Every Type of Self-Tanner Formula and How to Use Each One

Let’s be honest: Self-tanner is one of the trickiest beauty products to use. One wrong move and you’ll end up looking more like an orange Oompa Loompa than a bronzed Victoria’s Secret model. And during the summer months, it’s hard to cover up self-tanner goofs (we’re looking at you, streaks and splotches!) when you’re living in T-shirts and shorts. But it doesn’t have to be this way. There are lots of different types of self-tanners on the market, so the key is finding one that you can apply without having to worry about less-than-desirable results. The majority of self-tanners contain dihydroxyacetone (DHA), which, according to the Food and Drug Administration, interacts with dead skin cells on your skin’s surface to temporarily darken your skin color. Keep reading to learn about the many varieties of self-tanner formulas so that you can find your perfect match for a golden glow (sans sun damage) this summer.

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This article originally appeared on TotalBeauty.com

Your Guide to Every Type of Self-Tanner Formula

Gradual Self-Tanner

Gradual self-tanners work just as the name implies: gradually. You'll notice subtle sun-kissed color over the course of a few days of using these buildable lotions. If you have fair skin or are nervous about looking orange, try a gradual self-tanner, suggests Kerry Evans, owner of and airbrush technician at Glow + Co. Mobile Airbrush Tanning in New York City. "It's also good for newbies since it's less apparent if you miss a spot or mess up the tan," says Evans. She's a fan of Tan-Luxe The Gradual Illuminating Gradual Tan Lotion, $33, a lotion-oil hybrid that provides color and hydration, thanks to raspberry seed oil, vitamin E and aloe vera. Apply to skin daily for a natural-looking tan.
Self-Tanner Lotion

Have a bit of experience using self-tanner? Than a self-tanner lotion might be for you. When you apply a self-tanner lotion, color typically develops within 6-8 hours after use, but it's not exactly the most forgiving formula. "I recommend more experienced people use this since it's easier to notice if you've missed a spot, especially if it's a darker color," says Evans. She says self-tanner lotions are a great option for everyday use or to enhance your legs if you have an event where you'll be showing them off in a short dress. Evans likes Bondi Sands Self Tanning Lotion, $24. "It's a very bronze color, not orange," she says. Exfoliate before use and apply using a self-tanner mitt for the smoothest, most streak-free finish. Avoid showering for six hours post-application.

In-shower self-tanner lotions exist now, too, but Evans isn't crazy about them because they're a little awkward to use. With these, you apply them in the shower when your skin is wet but then you have to stand around waiting for the color to develop, without getting your skin wet, and rinse off. That being said, in-shower self-tanner lotions do provide subtle, buildable coverage, she adds.
Self-Tanner Mist

If you find it difficult to apply self-tanner to your backside, then this just might be the right self-tanner formula for you. In essence, self-tanner mist is a tan in a can. "It's definitely easier to get hard-to-reach spots and greater coverage with a spray, so it's less likely that you can mess it up. It's also great to quickly tan your face with a few sprays," Evans says. Caleb Backe, health and wellness expert for Maple Holistics, likes South Seas Skin Care Tahitian Tan Mist, $28. "Not only does it dry instantly, it ensures that you get an even tan that dries on contact," he says. After exfoliating in the shower, shake the can well and spray it all over your body in circular motions from 12 inches away. Wait eight hours until showering again.
Self-Tanner Towelettes

Self-tanner towelettes offer a lot of control, so they're easier to use and build coverage than a lot of other formulas, says Evans. Most brands make separate self-tanner towelettes for face and body. For face, she loves Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Glow Pads, $38, because they offer very natural color. "They exfoliate while adding adding the DHA tanning agent and also have added vitamins and antioxidants," Evans says. After cleansing, apply in circular motions over your face.

For body, Backe says TanTowel Body Tan Towelettes, $29, are the gold standard and are even formulated with tea tree oil to fight body breakouts. Exfoliate, apply in circular motions to dry skin (using sparingly around your knees, ankles and elbows) and allow to dry for at least four hours.
Self-Tanner Mousse

Like self-tanner lotions, it's easy to mess up when using self-tanner mousse, though using a mitt can make application simpler. According to Evans, a mousse is usually thicker and darker than a lotion, providing more coverage and typically fewer streaks. She suggests opting for a lighter color the first time you use it and recommends Tan-Luxe Hydra-Mousse, $57, as her formula of choice. "It's amazing and clear and streak-free and hydrating at the same time," Evans says, adding that it provides very natural, non-orangey color. Use the mitt to sweep the self-tanner over moisturized skin, then wait at least 6 to 10 hours before showering.
Self-Tanner Serum

For a slight hint of color on your face, reach for a self-tanner serum. "They're typically only used for the face," Evans says. "They can be pretty light and easy to layer with a lower amount of DHA. They're great to use every morning before your makeup routine for a little extra glow." Similar to regular serums, self-tanner serums sometimes have added vitamins, oils or hydrating ingredients, like hyaluronic acid. Evans' pick for this category is Coola Organic Sunless Tan Anti-Aging Face Serum, $54. For a gradual tan, add a couple of drops to your daily moisturizer.
Self-Tanner Drops

Customize your tan with self-tanner drops. They're concentrated and can be added to your regular serum, moisturizer or body lotion. "I love these for an easy way to add a little glow to your typical everyday routine," Evans says. For the face, try Isle of Paradise Self Tanning Drops, $29, formulated with avocado, chia seed and coconut oil for major moisturization. Just add one or more drops (depending on how deep you want your tan to be, you can use up to 12 drops) to your moisturizer and apply.

For the body, Evans likes Tan-Luxe The Body Illuminating Self Tan Drops, $59, which helps reduce the appearance of cellulite in addition to providing golden color. Mix two to six drops into your regular body lotion.
Self-Tanner Oil

For an overnight tan, add self-tanner oil to your stash of beauty products. The number one product Evans recommends to clients is Tan-Luxe Sleep Oil Rejuvenating Miracle Tanning Oil, $49. Packed with good-for-your-skin oils like marula and argan, this self-tanner oil provides a beautiful, natural glow while you sleep. Exfoliate, then apply in place of your face oil or moisturizer two or three nights a week.
Self-Tanner Water

Water does the body good and self-tanner water does the skin good. This innovative self-tanning formula is clear but color develops in a matter of hours. Vita Liberata Invisi Foaming Tan Water, $39, dries quickly and is formulated with anti-aging ingredients like ginkgo biloba and raspberry to protect skin against aging free radical damage. Exfoliate, then use a tanning mitt to apply self-tanner water in circular motions all over your body.