Images: Imaxtree
The elite of the fashion world have now crossed the pond and watched the runways with bated breath and a critical eye as models and street stylers sashayed about London. You might find it hard to believe that London Fashion Week(end) has already wrapped, but everyone from Victoria Beckham (whose daughter Harper Beckham shared a cute twinning bob moment with Anna Wintour) to Matty Bovan and Halpern, who showcased their collections, are likely breathing a sigh of relief that it’s all over.
London has undoubtedly become a huge contender for excellence over recent years, rivaling New York and Paris, thanks to designers like Victoria Beckham and new talent like Matty Bovan keeping the city on everyone’s radar. Burberry has also become a massive staple during the LFW calendar, largely because Riccardo Tisci is creative director of the iconic British brand.
Over the past few days, our fierce and unfiltered forum members have been at hand dissecting just about every show and here’s a few things we’ve learned in the comments section: JW Anderson should have perhaps been Raf Simons’ replacement at Christian Dior, the styling of Margaret Howell’s immaculately presented collection stole the show and Simone Rocha delivered her most “regal and playful” show to date.
On the opposite end of the scale, someone needs to inform Matty Bovan that we don’t need another John Galliano, the Sesame Street inspiration flopped big time at Mary Katrantzou and is it any wonder that we almost forgot about Christopher Kane given that uninspired collection?
Look no further for a candid (and sometimes brutal) take on London Fashion Week’s Fall 2019 season, as directed and articulated by theFashionSpot’s forum members. Are you coming to Milan with us? See you there!
[ Next: The Best Street Style Looks From London Fashion Week Fall 2019 ]
Hits and Misses London Fall 2019
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HIT: Eudon Choi
"There are some good elements here; it kinda has a 70s street vibe." [Not Plain Jane]
"Really like this." [AnaD]
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MISS: ALEXACHUNG
"This garbage should be burned." [helmutnotdead]
"No one needs another boring nonsense brand. Alexa's great at looking good, being a presenter, talking and being an it girl but should stick to that and do what she can do best. At least her stuff is not too overpriced." [entten]
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HIT: Halpern
"So beautiful! I can see a modern-age Cleopatra in this collection. The first look is stellar!" [Koibito]
"There are some very good looks here; the use of sequin is Halpern’s signature and there’s a reason why!" [apple]
"Wow! Great casting! Also gorgeousness from start to finish!" [AnaD]
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MISS: Ports 1961
"I've lost count of how many times I have seen the "dropped shoulder" concept copied from Raf Simons at CK ... it's everywhere! The only hit Simons had during his tenure there, from his debut collection. And they are always so lazy that they don´t even care to change left shoulder for the right one! Minimum effort rules!" [jeanclaude]
"I can actually write this comment in nearly every single thread: This all looks the fu**ing same ... put away the name, put away the runway background, add all looks from all brands together and it's like one huuuuge tiring collection! It's insane and annoying." [entten]
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HIT: Simone Rocha
"Regal and playful, with a pretty cast!" [Not Plain Jane]
"This is a great collection. I’ve always liked her work, but here it feels more mature, a bit more evil without becoming too fairytale. What’s nice about her is that’s she’s developing slowly, it’s a welcome pace if you compare it to the astronomic rise and crash of Vetements, for example. Highlights of this collection are definitely the play with trench structure in transparent." [Norden]
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MISS: Molly Goddard
"I’ve never liked any of her collections and this one is no exception ... it’s just too unflattering in my opinion. Working with some kind of proportion and fabrics demands perfect designing otherwise it will look bad even on models." [apple]
"I want to like it because i really enjoyed her previous collection but i can't. It's impossible. It's all stiff, unresolved, unflattering. It looks heavy and in motion, it looked the same. It's just bad!" [Lola701]
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HIT: Victoria Beckham
"Beautiful collection, it somehow feels more like some of her earlier shows, perhaps more tailoring, but still has the essence of the evolution she has been on. There was a good balance here, something she and her team struggled with in previous collections. The coats are so beautiful, but I want the knits over those stunning silk blouses too, and shoes are major." [Miss Dalloway]
"Gorgeous collection, I‘d wear almost everything!" [liberty33r1b]
"I could never fault her line. Is it the most original, creative, ground-breaking fashion I have ever seen? No, of course not. But it looks all luxurious, well made and very commercial. I would wear a lot of the clothing if I were a woman. Well done Victoria." [Piece Of Me]
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MISS: Matty Bovan
"Dear Matty, there is already one John Galliano ... and he's at Maison Margiela, you know? Please, stop pretending that John´s work is invisible to the rest of the world but you. Yours truly, JC." [jeanclaude]
"Young London 'talent' is really embarrassing. This could not look more Westwood/Galliano if he tried." [dior_couture1245]
"Nope! Such a try-hard. The collection is all over the place and it look like a student's work. I can't understand the hype around him." [Koibito]
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HIT: JW Anderson
"There is something about this that I really, really love. I wouldn't say I was a fan of his nor would I say I hated his work, but rather it never moved me in one direction or another. But this collection I find to be beautiful, very beautiful." [Salvatore]
"Honestly, it’s stunning. Interesting shapes and unlike before, the woman is not lost. There are so many things that I like here. Another win for JWA and I'm sure between this and Marc [Jacobs], Sidney [Toledano] is now regretting putting MGC at Dior." [Lola701]
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MISS: Mary Katrantzou
"I think Mary's digital printer got a virus, malware or something ... or maybe it just was hacked ... or it got rebellious, in a Terminator mode, and instead of wanting to erase mankind from Earth, it just began creating this little collection of walking nightmares to torment us forever and ever." [jeanclaude]
"What’s going on here? I think this is a failed attempt to show she can do more than print, but I only see a bad version of Valentino, Valli and others. Instead of changing direction, she should have focused on her signature style and improve that with some new elements." [apple]
"It looks like she got trapped in the trimmings room and made the best of it. I'm really beginning to have an aversion to feathers and big ruffles, it's a look that's been beaten to death these past few seasons." [AnaD]
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HIT: Erdem
"Very romanticized. Rich colors, classic pieces. There's a lot to see, yet it's so cohesive it doesn't exhaust the eye. Solid." [dfl-001]
"If I become a vampire this is how I want to dress. I kind of love this. Erdem's dark florals and lace have always been his strongest points, and he just leaned into them. I love the cardigan looks, and the ones with the big 50s style skirts." [AnaD]
"Oh I like it ... now that I discovered that his office is on the street I live, I like it even more. Neighbor bias but seriously, I think it’s beautiful!" [KissMiss]
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MISS: Burberry
"Too much! I don't like the whole streetwear section, it feels too attention seeking, but also Givenchy carbon copy. The elegant section is much better, but still a bit repetitive. Some great looks individually but sometimes the styling drags it down. Not sure where his vision for Burberry is going ATM, the whole revamp feels a bit lost so far." [Fiercification]
"Absolutely abysmal. Tisci is a disaster here. I actually think it’s such a wrong move for Burberry to become so 'un-British.' Sure — he’s playing with the clichés, but his sensibility is just so Italian. Such a misfit here." [dior_couture1245]
"Please, God, help us, this is awful. The first collection was happy but this one feels like the leftovers of the first collection. No thank you." [GivenchyAddict]
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HIT: Chalayan
"This is brilliant. It's great to see clothing that's more streamlined, more fitted, more minimal after so much excess and volume in many of the other collections." [Not Plain Jane]
"It's quite beautiful. Lovely construction and use of materials." [AnaD]
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MISS: Roksanda
"Looks like she's been going through Valentino Haute Couture for inspirations. Her clothes normally plays with bold colors and volumes already but the reference is too uncanny." [TaylorBinque]
"I'll never get the appeal of wearing a 'gift-wrapped' dress. If you look like you belong under a Christmas tree, I think there is a big problem. An unnecessary Valentino-induced orgy of fabric." [jeanclaude]
"I like how she consistently uses bold colors in her collections, but every year it's another designer she's taking inspiration from. I can't judge something if it's entirely derivative of someone else's work, especially when it pales in comparison to the original." [AnaD]
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HIT: Margaret Howell
"LOVE." [khyrk]
"I love both shearling coats, but especially the longer one. I was recently looking at Diane Keaton's 70s style and I see a lot of that here, mainly in the corduroy and pant cut." [Not Plain Jane]
"The styling is fantastic!" [RedSmokeRise]
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MISS: Christopher Kane
"Clueless. No wonder he's been left behind." [GivenchyHomme]
"Liquid under plastic again? First time was interesting. Second time is unimaginative." [jeanclaude]
"Hmmmm... too much bad 80s here." [Not Plain Jane]
